Born in Sri Lanka’s restive northern region in 1982, Nitharshini Mathyalagan’s life has been
shaped by conflict, displacement and an unwavering pursuit of purpose.
Her journey marked by resilience and reinvention has taken her across borders from India,
Sri Lanka, Malaysia and now France.
Growing up during the Sri Lankan civil war, she and her family were forced to flee their
homeland, seeking safety elsewhere. Despite the instability, she returned home to complete
her Advanced Level studies in 2003 — a milestone that reflected her determination to
pursue education against all odds.
But in 2006, as the violence reignited in Sri Lanka, the family fled once again — this time to
Malaysia.
Although the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR) recognised her
refugee status, there were local laws to abide by and it wasn’t easy with an eight-month old
baby.
With so much uncertainty, she found solace and strength in an unlikely place – the kitchen.
With support from Tech Outreach, a Malaysian non-governmental organisation (NGO) then
headed by Dr Selvamalar Ayadurai (Dr Malar) and the generosity of some local individuals,
she started baking to earn some money.
“Tech Outreach gave me a loan of RM1,000 to purchase a bigger oven and it turned out to
be a great investment. The NGO later gave me another RM1,000 loan to buy additional
baking utensils,” shares Nitharshini as it helped boost her business.
Through her earnings from baking simple cakes and cookies, she enrolled in a local diploma
programme in Pastry Arts, a bold step that transformed her.
Over the next few years while still a refugee in Kuala Lumpur and awaiting placement to a
third country, she mastered not just the art of baking but making a tapestry of Malaysian
teatime snacks and street food staples.
Recognising her unwavering tenacity and tireless efforts as a self-supporting young refugee,
the 29-year-old was presented the Symbol of Education Tech Outreach Award in 2011.
She scored yet another accolade from Tech Outreach for being Role Model for Women in
Need in 2015.
That same year, under the UN resettlement programme, Nitharshini together with her
daughter Hereshini were granted asylum in France. Her husband Mathyalagan Krishnapillai
followed two years later. They now live in Aubervilliers, a Paris suburb with a vibrant migrant
population.
“I had to start from scratch but was determined to set up a food catering business,”
says the 43-year-old reflecting on her struggles.
With the help of friends and even acquaintances who secured clients and placed food
orders, she was able to launch her catering business, Nitha Traiteur, in 2019.
Soon after, her mother Balajeyanthy Chandrasegaram who was living with her, suffered a
stroke and this unexpected crisis derailed her plans, Nitharshini had to reprioritise her needs
devoting full attention and care to her mother.
That wasn’t all, then came the Covid Pandemic and while it may have paused her
momentum, she didn’t let go of her dreams.
Having been a refugee herself, she knew the pain of going hungry and volunteered her
services at Refettorio, a community kitchen in Paris where she prepared meals for the
homeless over several months during the pandemic.
Over time, with a structured routine and proper care for her mother, she finally had the space
— to return to what she loved.
She set up a new kitchen, meeting local food authority guidelines and within walking
distance from her house.
Her repertoire now features Sri Lankan snacks and Malaysian desserts that include mutton
rolls, kuih talam ubi, a traditional dessert made with coconut milk and sweet potato and the
delectable pandan cake.
She’s also perfected Malaysian savoury classics like nasi goreng, the quintessential
Malaysian fried rice dish, Maggi goreng and mee hoon goreng, both stir-fried noodles. Her
lemon grass chicken — fragrant and tender — has become a favourite with her customers in
France.
Today, her journey and culinary path is more than a menu. She was yet again recognised by
WeAre TheCity and Visa Everywhere (London), a UK-based initiative honouring trailblazing
refugee women entrepreneurs across Europe.
It is a testament to perseverance and pride of an incredible person from a refugee
background who has created a positive impact in the community she lives in.
Her journey continues to inspire others facing displacement, proving that even in the most
uncertain circumstances, it is possible to rise, rebuild, and thrive.
By Jeyamalar Kandiah